The Boat Trip

It's Sugar's turn this time to catch the fish of the day as he hauls in another 50 - 60 pounder. It's not quite such an attractive or tasty fish, but it has the looks to scare the best of us! We can now relax on the dinner front, as that is quite clearly covered. Now all that remains is to catch some good waves. As we make our way around the South side of the island, weary of seeing slightly onshore winds too light and badly orientated for windsurfing, but strong enough to mess up the surf, we start to get frustrated.

We make our way around a point, noticing that the landscape above is reminiscent of a film that we have seen. It turns out that this was where 'King Kong' was filmed! Of even more interest to us though, is finding a small pass in the reef on the other side with waves breaking on both sides. Perfect 3 footers are peeling off both right and left, and we are the only ones here. We get some great waves and for the first time on the trip paddle back to the boat with heavy arms, absolutely exhausted - what a feeling!

There is a certain way of doing things here in Fiji, and this must be respected. The local Fijians are extremely happy that we are here enjoying their waves, but common courtesy must be shown. This is their home and we must consequently follow local customs and show our respect to the elders of the village, thanking them for sharing what they have with us. We therefore row ashore that evening to join in a Kava drinking session with these elders. Kava is a type of root plant possessing a gingery style taste, that when prepared with water is drunk by the Fijians, very regularly! It is supposed to have some kind of hallucinogenic qualities and certainly makes you feel a little drowsy. However this doesn't seem to stop the elders from drinking it by the gallon.

The roots get ground down in a traditional wooden bowl full of water. It is then served around in little wooden bowls, one person at a time, accompanied by clapping and words of thanks from everyone present. What is absolutely incredible is that these elders are there, day in day out for 5 or 6 hours every evening drinking Kava, whilst their wives are at home preparing the dinner, feeding the kids and putting them to bed. Mind you, now that I think about it, it's not that much different to the British ritual of spending the whole evening drinking beers in the pub with your mates while 'her indoors' prepares the dinner and deals

with the kids! There is however something that is so much more sacred and full of tradition about the way the Fijians do this, and we are certainly not about to disrespect it. Bjorn, eloquently I might add, explains to the Chief of the village and indeed the rest of the throng of people assembled, the purpose of our visit, and what a pleasure it is for us to be here. This goes down very well, producing smiles all around and bowls full of Kava are soon thrown our way. We grit our teeth and manage to force three or four down our throats. It is certainly not the tastiest of drinks, but refusing a round would be hugely disrespectful so we quietly oblige. Another hour or so passes and we are filled in on village hierarchy, religion and various other Fijian customs, all absolutely fascinating. However, not being heavy Kava drinkers, we start to feel considerably drowsy and manage to politely excuse ourselves, leaving our Captain to continue and finish off proceedings without us.

The following morning, we are sadly touched by true capitalism, this far from civilisation. A boat pulls up alongside with messengers from the neighbouring village, claiming that they own the rights to the reef we are surfing on. They inform us that we must pay per person for each surf session we have there. Although the amount they are asking for is not that much, we feel saddened that such an attitude could prevail so far from the commercialised world. Even if they do as a village own the reef that the waves are breaking on, waves are not, never have been and indeed never will be a resource that will run out through people surfing them, something indeed that makes our sports so special.

Therefore after discussing the matter at length with the Chief of this village, we decide to move on rather than submit to something that we consider so unjust.