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DEEP IN THE BARREL
You don’t have to go far to find the wave: A perfect long
right which breaks in front of the village: hollow, fast and extremely
powerful, it’s a perfect barrel. It doesn’t
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take long for the boys to rig aboard the Searcher
and get out onto this virgin wave. I haven’t seen such perfection
in years in Hawaii. It could be in a film, or at least in the best
surfing magazines, and with wind on it as well !! The offshore orientation
of the wind gives the wave the most perfect shape, but makes taking
off that much harder. With no room for error, the wave breaks at
supersonic speed, any slight hesitation punished severely. Without
further delay, the first victim is taken, as Scott goes out with
the lip, having ventured a little too deep into the bowl…..broken
mast.
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Scott Carvill (click to enlarge)
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Meanwhile, Robby now recovering from his sea sickness is linking
turn into turn, Bjorn gets a big aerial as Tristan lays into a bottom
turn and Vittorio has the waves of his life !!! They return 3 hours
later, smiling from ear to ear after an unforgettable session.
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Bjorn, relaxed (click
to enlarge)
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Three days is quite simply not long enough for a trip
to paradise ! But it is easily equivalent to 3 or 4 weeks normally
spent searching for spots on this kind of trip. Conditions every
day and a motivated crew at our disposal for the entire trip. Food
that great restaurants would be proud to serve, music and films
on board and Red Bull on tap (thank you Bjorn). In short, it felt
like we were living in another time, at the heart of one of the
last mystical spots of the Hawaiian Islands whilst at the same time
we seemed oblivious to the fact that bombs were now falling over
Bagdad.
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INTERVIEW WITH THE RIDERS
Hawaii and the opportunity
Tristan Boxford: I have been coming to Hawaii now for about
seven years, each time for a longer stay and each stay shrouded
with an increasingly overwhelming reluctance to leave. Originally
I was drawn to the islands to come and do what I love best, spending
every single day in the ocean, windsurfing and surfing. Although
that
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is still the case, it has become more than that for
me now, as I have been lucky enough to discover what a magical place
it is and get a taste of its true ‘aina’ (spirit) whilst
learning more about Hawaiian culture and tradition. Indeed, the
more time I spend on this isolated land mass, the more attached
to it I become, so much so that I am now a house owner on Maui and
am proud to be able to call this beautiful island my home. Therefore
being given the chance to go and discover a more untouched part
of Hawaii with a group of good friends on a 100ft luxury boat was
like winning 10 years worth of lottery all at once! What’s
more, the idea of riding a wave that very few people have ever ridden,
far from everything and anyone except for just your fellow discoverers
and a quiver of boards and rigs is what the spirit of the ‘Search’
is all about.
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Bjorn Dunkerbeck (click to enlarge)
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For more surf action click on these links:
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| © 2003 by
cfpk |
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